Guitar Wall Hangers,
Part II: Make your own
As my collection grew
and my child grew more mobile, I needed to get the guitars off the
and out of reach. The horizontal wall
I'd previously purchased were hand-made by someone who sold them on
Unfortunately, I couldn't find these for sale any longer, and all other
options were too expensive for my tastes and/or were unsatisfactory for
other reasons (e.g., some designs weren't structurally as sound).
This design is more or less an exact
of the horizontal hangers I've always had. Not much
This particular configuration is intended for solid-body electric
and Steinbergers in particular (as you'll see with the modification at
the end of the page). However, this design could be adapted for
guitar provided the dimensions were altered to accommodate it.
||Start with an aluminum bar: 1.5"
1/16" thick. You can get these from most big hardware stores and
probably a lot of the smaller ones.
The original hangers were at least twice as thick as this, but
I wasn't sure if I would be able to work with material that
In reality, this thickness is probably more than adequate.
has the advantages of not corroding, being light, and it's
It's relatively easy to cut/drill through as well. I found this
at Lowes, and it was long enough that I was able to make two hangers
of it. This photo is of the remainder after I cut the first piece.
Actually, you have some play in
since you can have it hold the guitar at any point you like along the
neck, so you don't have to be too precise with the length.
||Bend it in a vice about 3 to 3.5
in (for a solid body guitar; more for hollowbodies, obviously). I
could make the bend literally by hand (with the vice holding it,
only because this bar is rather thin. You would likely have to
an alternate approach (or at least a means of applying greater force)
order to work with anything much thicker.
I had some additional length left
here at the long end. I cut that off with an angle grinder.
The total length of the bar needs to be around 20 inches, although
want to check it out with your guitar to determine if that works for
||Next I needed to create the
pocket. I drilled the hole larger and larger with increasing bits
until I finished with a 3/8" bit. Again, check at every point to
ensure the measurements are appropriate to your instrument(s).
||The hole needs to be opened up
so I carved from the edge to it with the angle grinder. I didn't
do a very neat job, obviously, but it's fine since only the hole really
matters. Other machining tools might be more appropriate for
like this, but this is what I have to work with here.
You can always line the edges
to avoid scratching the guitar, although this spot is unlikely to ever
touch the finish.
||Other holes followed. The
is for the neck hanger, and it needs to be the diameter of the screw
using. I found that a 3" 10-32 machine screw was ideal for my
and bought a pack of three (with nuts) from the local hardware store.
Try out your guitar in the hanger
how far the screw needs to stick out to accommodate it and others of
design. When you get an idea of the upper limit, mark it with a
That's where you're going to bend it. Again, I used the vice/hand
approach since the screw's diameter was really thin.
Note: You also might prefer the
to be closer to the higher fret (or just the opposite). If so,
need to eyeball it and see where it should be. Don't worry.
The hanger should hold just as well no matter where you put it since
of the weight is in the body.
||Now you're going to cover the
a short length of vinyl plumbing tubing. You can buy this stuff
the foot (or less, probably) from any hardware store. I bought a
couple different gauges (just in case), and the smaller one worked out
fine. Remember that you're going to go around the bend in the
so it has to have a somewhat larger diameter than the screw. It
be too snug or you'll never get it past the turn without ripping.
||Note that the original hanger
bit more professional than my work. I'm not sure where this
or the cap came from.
I used the clear vinyl tubing
I was re-covering my old guitar stands where
the original rubber was dry-rotted. I also used it for for a talkbox I built.
||The final three holes are for
it to the wall. You can adjust the spacing as you like. I
to put one in the middle and the other two on either end. The
lines up with a stud, and the other two are more there mainly to
it from rotating. Since they're in sheetrock, they really aren't
going to hold up the weight.
Note that if you have closer stud
in your home, you could adjust this so that two holes line up with two
adjacent studs. I didn't have that option, but you may luck out
if there's a perpendicular wall on the other side or some other unusual
bit of framing (e.g., I had framing for windows that had been removed in my 1925
Finally, let's hang it. As
above, the middle hole is for the stud. I don't
molly bolts or butterflies or anything else for something like
Remember, it's your guitar that's going on the wall.
||The original wall hanger had the
holes counter-sunk. Again, I didn't have this capability
to me, but that's fine. The guitar sits far enough away from the
body of the hanger that the screw heads are unlikely to touch it.
||Steinberger guitars are odd in
and usually that's good (e.g., they stay in tune awesomely and have the
best tremolo EVER), but they're impossible to hang vertically and
even difficult to hang horizontally.
Because the strap nuts are offset
than mid-line, the body of the guitar is at an angle. With the
rotated slightly, it would be pressing against the support at the rear
of the body. As a result, I bent the bottom edge of the bar away
from it slightly (two vice grips with the bar in the vice) that so it
(Special guest appearance by
||As a result, the bottom edge of
is flared outward so that it doesn't press against the body.
||The result: Two Steinbergers
the living room.