A cold solder joint is a phrase with a double meaning: 1) it describes a connection that no current flows through  (where "cold" = opposite of "hot") and 2) one that was formed by improperly applying the hot soldering iron.  Even if a connection is made, the solder tends to just appear "blob"-like, and it will likely break if any torque is applied.  That means that even a "working" connection may not be by the time you re-assemble your guitar let alone while you're in the middle of a solo at a gig!

The proper way to solder is counter-intuitive: You apply the soldering iron to the metal, then add the solder to that without touching it to the solder iron.  The solder will magically wrap around all the hot metal and form a conductive skin across the surface of every component it touches.

• Do NOT: Apply the solder to the iron and then dribble it onto the connection you want to fix.

Tip: Purchase a proper stand for your soldering iron if it didn't come with one.  Stands like the one pictured here are sold for ~$6 at Radio Shack.  They are much safer than the little wire ring that many inexpensive irons come with and leave the tip exposed for you to burn your sleeves on (I did!).

• Tip: Keep the tip of the iron clean (most stands have a sponge for this purpose) and, when soldering, apply the broad side of the tip, not an edge.  The more contact you make with the metal, the more heat will conduct.  Similarly, make certain the components you are soldering are clean!  A thin layer of grease or oil is common on many components (even if they're relatively old) and can impede joining the solder no matter how hot you make it!

• Tip: Use a thin gauge of solder.  You can always feed more of it into a joint, but a thick gauge will be difficult to get into a tight space.

Tip: Get a multimeter with a continuity test.  A continuity test is generally a continuous beep when you have a working connection.  This is indispensable when you are soldering as it lets you know that you are making good connections.  If you happen to have a cold joint somewhere, a multimeter will allow you to find and address it.  (I had an earlier version to the one at the left; This will set you back $30 unless you happen to catch it on sale, but you'll find a million uses for it!)

• Tip: Be patient!  The standard low-wattage soldering iron will do any job described on these pages, but it may take a little time to get the components hot enough to melt the solder.  This is because the components draw the heat away almost as fast as the iron delivers it.  No big deal, okay?

• Do NOT: Crank up the heat on a high wattage soldering iron.  You can end up frying the components, particularly if you have active electronics (e.g., a preamp).  Use a heat sink if you are doing a job that could result in damage to more sensitive components.

Tip: Another helpful tool is a small, adjustable vice like this one I found this one at Wal-mart.  The head pivots and locks in place to firmly hold small components at the angle you desire, freeing your hands to manipulate the soldering iron, solder, wire, and other tools.  Also, it has a suction base (activated by the lever) to keep you from knocking it over while you have a hot iron in hand.

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